China is not the homogenized place most westerner media portrays. Just like California is not the same as Arkansas, Liping is not Guangzhou or Shanghai. In this vast country, one doesn’t have to travel very far to see it’s diversity. This diversity isn’t just in language and diets, but also in the levels of economic and infrastructural development. In my recent trip to Liping, Guizhou, I saw some of these difference first hand.
Last week I decided to pay Phil a visit in Liping, Guizhou. Liping is in the southern part of China that few outside of the province have even heard of. When I checked in for my flight at the Guangzhou airport, the lady behind the counter asked her co-worker, “Where is Liping? We fly there?”
Before the opening of the airport in late 2005, travelers to Liping had to take a bus from Guiyan that can last 12 hours on a mountainous bumpy road. Lucky for me, my uneventful flight from Guangzhou to Liping took about 75 minutes on the ERJ 145 jet.
Large parts of the province of Guizhou is designated as autonomous regions for the many minority groups. Liping is mostly populated by the southern Dong people. The Dong is perhaps best known for its carpentry skills and its singing. Traditional building such as the drum towers and covered bridges were built without nails.
Phil and Jack met me at the airport which is about a 20-minute taxi ride from the airport to the center of town. The taxi ride reminded me of taxi rides in Taiwan 25 years ago: passing and speeding around blind corner and the constant use of the horn. These taxi drivers would make pretty good rally racers. Many things in Liping reminded me of Taiwan of yesteryears: street foods, open air markets, dusty/muddy/tight streets, and even the people. It’s not hard to see why Taiwanese businesses have done well in China.
Coming from Hong Kong/Guangzhou, Liping was a lot colder. At night, it’s close to freezing. But when sky clears and the sun warms the valley, the temperature can warm up by 30 F. This means therms undies when you leave the house, t-shirt by lunch, and putting the layers back on for dinner.
The numbers of white foreigner in Liping can be counted with one hand. Phil stands out here and it felt like everyone knows him. I was astonished by the number of people that speak English in this neck of the woods. Phil and Joanna must have done a really good job. I think I met more good English speakers here then in Guangzhou.
The foods here tends to be simple and on the spicy side. The table condiments usually includes a couple of different kinds of hot sauce and a bowl of crushed chili peppers. Hot pots are common when it gets cold. The cost of eating out is about half the cost of Guangzhou, which is half of Hong Kong. A bowl of noodles with pork and eggs will cost about 10-15 YMB. I picked up 500g of freshly roasted chestnut for 8 YMB, the same bag would cost 25 in Hong Kong.
Liping is more then tripled in size in the last few years. Since Phil and Joanna first moved here 5 years ago, many terrace farms near the city have been converted to tall buildings. Old single story wooden houses were demolished to make way for the new multi-lane roads.
I had the honor of participating in a couple of Phil’s English classes. The students are English teachers from the surrounding areas. They are here to learn not just the language but also some of its culture. This make Phil the perfect instructor. Phil’s very good at relating to them and showing them the differences in the cultures. And I am glad to be part of it. The students were very curious in my background of being an ABC and lived in Taiwan. They were surprised that how much Liping reminded me of Taiwan.
My time in Liping was limited and the weather wasn’t the best. I will have to come back soon to learn more about it.
Up next: It’s time to go to see the completely different part of China: Beijing.
